Changa Safari Camp, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

Changa Safari Camp

Changa Safari Camp is located on the banks of Lake Kariba in the Matusadona National Park. I felt that offers an authentic African safari feel with all the comforts you need without going over the top luxury.

The camp has 8 canvas rooms that are shaded by the mopane trees. All rooms overlook the lake and have the most stunning views. I loved going out onto my private little wooden deck in the morning with a cup of coffee, taking in all the sounds and smells of the lake.

How I got there

The staff from the camp picked me up from another camp, however, I departed from the local airstrip, which I got to by boat as well. So if you are travelling to the lake, just be prepared to do a lot of boat travelling!

On another boat ride at the lake it got quite a bumpy but depending on you feel about bumpy rides, I found it quite fun. If you get sea sick or travel sick in anyway, travelling by boat between lodges might not be the best idea. We had to cover and lock all our luggage away and I started off by having my camera out but quickly put it away and opted for my go pro. I did get some quite funny and bumpy footage of the boat ride but I was mostly being thrown all over the place. So getting off the boat I was very wet…but I had a great time! I think it’s all part of the experience but it’s just something to keep in mind.

If you arrive or depart by plane, then be prepared for some amazing views!

My room

The 6 double rooms and 2 sets of interconnecting family rooms are all tented with canvas walls and ceilings, giving off fabulous safari vibes. They overlook the lake and have their own personal outside deck with a hammock to relax in.

All rooms have an indoor shower as well as an outdoor shower and bath, so that you can enjoy some luxury and relaxation whilst surrounded by the mopane woodland. How amazing to be able to have a bubble bath whilst listening to birds and hippos….such a DREAM!!

The main area

The main area is so cute and has thatched roofs keeping it nice and cool. It is super colourful and comfortable with lots of places to relax in whilst in between activities.

But…the pool!! Wow the pool! The infinity pool overlooks the banks of the river and just the most amazing place to relax in. Around the pool there are lots of loungers, including a swinging double bed that you can sunbathe on. They also had floating pillows that you can take in the pool - which I has so much fun laying on and floating on in the pool! I did find that there was some bird poo on quite a lot of the seating as there are a lot of trees that shade the area, however, this is all part of the experience and being in the wild.

I just loved being in the water listening to and watching the hippos! I just love their noises so much!

Activities and wildlife

There is so much up at the lake to keep you busy, however, there is also plenty of opportunity to also sit back and relax and enjoy the sounds and smells of the bush. You can enjoy game drives, bush walks, boat cruises, birding and fishing! Lake Kariba is a lot more slower paced than other safari designations where it is less about chasing the larger game, but more about appreciating everything that you see and just enjoy being in the area and on the lake. I just felt so peaceful there and was just soaking in the atmosphere. If you are a big birder or are really into your fishing, then Lake Kariba is for YOU!!

One of my favourite things about Lake Kariba is the sunsets! Whilst I was staying at Changa, we went out on a boat trip to spot wildlife and birds at the waterfalls and was starting to head back to the lodge when our boat took a little detour. It pulled up to this beautiful little island with a sundowner set up ready for us! It was AMAAAZING! It was in the perfect location and as you know by now, I love a sunset, especially when there is amarula! It was the most perfect set up.

Being on safari and staying at camps, there are always little surprises like this and it is just what makes the experience so special.

My thoughts

Overall I loved my stay at Changa and I think it is in a wonderful location and allows you to make the most of being at the Lake. I think the style of the lodge is perfect without it being too basic or over the top luxury. The staff and the activities were incredible and I just loved all the little extra touches and personalised experiences.

Thank you so much for a wonderful stay and I hope to be back soon!

Rhino Safari Camp, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

Rhino Safari Camp, Lake Kariba

Rhino Safari Camp is located on the banks of Lake Kariba in Matusadona National Park, Zimbabwe and I can honestly say I fell totally in love with it. I must say that it is NOT for everyone as it is definitely a little rustic, but these types of places I prefer so much more over the luxury accommodations. This camp is just me all over as it totally immersed me into the African bush.

It is a small camp, with just 14 en suite stilted rooms. All the rooms are open fronted and spaced along the banks of the river. The camp is unfenced so it is a truly wild experience.

How I got there

The staff from the camp picked me up from another camp and we had quite a bumpy but fun ride over. If you get sea sick or travel sick in anyway, travelling by boat between lodges might not be the best idea. We had to cover and lock all our luggage away and I started off by having my camera out but quickly put it away and opted for my go pro. I did get some quite funny and bumpy footage of the boat ride but I was mostly being thrown all over the place. So getting off the boat I was very wet…but I had a great time! I think it’s all part of the experience but it’s just something to keep in mind.

My room

So as you can see below, the room is TOTALLY open and i’m in love with it! Don’t get me wrong, at night I was a little nervous but I was taking it all in and loved every second. You are basically sleeping in the bush! There is a mozzie net for night time and I would recommend sleeping with it on, unless you want to get bitten. The outside shower again is basic but has everything you need…and its outside! If you know me, you know I love an outside shower…day or night! The room is on stilts so you are off the ground so nothing big can get in, but you might hear and see animals as the camp is unfenced! Ah I just loved it!

The main area

How cute is this little main area? The whole place just gave me such good vibes and feelings the whole time and I could have honestly stayed here for weeks! If you are used to luxury safaris and expect the high end service, this place probably isn’t for you, unless you are looking for something totally different. However, if you are happy to go with the flow, have good guides, friendly service and want to totally immerse yourself into the experience then you will love this place!!

Activities and Wildlife

There are so many activities to do at the lake. Obviously the main attraction is the lake so you have to take advantage of that whilst you are there. So the majority of the activities you do will be boat based.

I had never fished before I went to Lake Kariba and it is known for its fishing! So obviously I had to try it! The guide was very patient with me and I think enjoyed watching me struggle and fail. I did catch one fish! I did also drop the bait in my Amarula as well…so I can’t say that I have much skill. I think I was more interested in the sunset, which you will understand when you see the pictures. I have NEVER seen sunsets like it before. But going back to fishing…if you are a beginner or expert, you will have a great time. Some people come up to the lake just to fish…you can also stay on a house boat to focus purely on this too.

As you guessed it, the wildlife is fantastic. Hippos galore, especially when you are on the river. There are also so many elephants on the banks and they look even more incredible at sunset.

The area is also full of lots of other wildlife and as you are by the lake, you get to see of a lot of crocs in the water and on the banks. This area is also very well known for its birding and you can either just head out and see what you can spot, or you can go on specialist birding tours. I saw so many malachite and pied kingfishers hunting (I didn’t get many great pictures as they are so fast!) as well as bee eaters and much more!

Oh the sunsets…I mean do I even need to say anything more? I am obsessed with sunsets so I just couldn’t get over the Lake Kariba sunsets. However, the pictures below were taken whislt I was on a boat, sipping Amarula and eating snacks…LOOK at those colours!!

The trees just make all the difference and make the Lake Kariba sunsets so incredible. The trees are there from when the area was flooded with water when making the lake and they really remind me of the petrified trees at Deadvlei in Namibia.

You can head out on game drives in the Matusadona National Park in their open top vehicle! Make sure you wear a hat and suncream!

Lake Kariba doesn’t have the concentration of game that other national parks have , but you will definitely have some fantastic game viewing. You can also explore the park on foot and appreciate the smaller wildlife and appreciate the surroundings a little more.

My thoughts

As you can probably tell, I loved my time here at Rhino Safari Camp and I feel that my stay was such a special one. It is totally unique and I would recommend it to anyone wanting some adventure and something a little different. You can combine it with something a little more luxury afterwards if you want but I feel that this camp offers such. authentic safari experience. The staff, guides and activities were phenomenal and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it.

I hope this has inspired you to travel to Lake Kariba and stay at Rhino Safari Camp!

&Beyonds Phinda Homestead, South Africa

&Beyonds Phinda Homestead, Phinda Private Reserve, South Africa

I feel extremely lucky to have stayed here at Phinda Homestead. I believe I was one of the first people to stay and one of the first agents to see and experience it. I stayed here for two nights and was blown away at every moment.

The lodge can only be booked on a private basis and is located in the Phinda Private Reserve near Durban in South Africa. So, it is perfect for families or big groups travelling together. Everything you see in this post, would be exclusive use…WOW! I still can’t quite believe I had the pleasure of staying here for two nights. We also had own private chef and butler for the duration of our stay!

How I got there

I arrived at Johannesburg Airport that morning before boarding a plane straight to the reserve. You can also fly to Durban and get a road transfer to the lodge. On arrival at the reserve airstrip we were greeted by our guide and taken to the lodge to settle in. By this point I was tired but extremely excited to have a look around the lodge and head out on my first game drive here.

My Room

Wow…just wow! The style of this lodge is like dream. It is like they read my mind and designed a lodge based on my style. The colours, the decoration, the style overall was just beautiful. The rooms were huge, with the bed looking out onto the bush with a large open plan bathroom, huge bath and an outside shower - one of my favourite things to have!

The bed was super comfy and I could have stayed in it all day…if I wasn’t on safari! I did end up sitting out on the deck for a while just watching antelope stroll by.

The main area

Just look at the main area….again all for you and the people you are on holiday with! No strangers and no one to disturb you.

There is so much chill out space and places to relax in and reflect on your game drives. The outside area is very open so plenty of opportunity to spot wildlife in and around the lodge.

Yes…that is your own bar. The staff are phenomenal and cater to all your needs…even when you think you don’t need anything. They are so friendly and make the experience even more special.

The pool and fire pit area are life goals….this for me was just incredible! So i’ll say it again, this pool is just for you and your family and friends staying at Phinda Homestead…no one else! Apart from outside visitors such as elephants who like to drop by for a little drink :)

I love the fire pit and I spent two wonderful evenings here, before and after dinner chatting and drinking amarula. I just LOVE a fire pit and will spend hours and hours sitting around it!

As well as the main area, the four bedrooms, the bunk beds for the kids, there are also lots of other areas of the lodge to explore such as the reading rooms, study, treatment area and gym. All for you!!

The Food

Oh the food….amazing! I was full the whole time I was there and was constantly being brought new things to eat. My favourite though has to be the pancakes in the morning…yummy!! Everything was cooked to perfection and extremely delicious.

One of the evenings we ate out in the private boma area and had a braai. The food and atmostphere was incredible! I was joined by the camp manager and just sat and listened to all his stories about living in the bush. Amazing!

The Wildlife and activities

Staying at Phinda Homestead or any of the other &Beyond Phinda properties allows you to head out on the Phinda Private Reserve for your safari and activities. Only &Beyond properties are on the reserve and there is plenty of space to explore so chances are you won’t run into anyone else very often.

Phinda is a ‘Big 5’ reserve meaning that you are likely to have awesome game viewing experiences. Just look at some of my pictures below….

The guides were fabulous and extremely knowledgable and made sure that we made the most of our stay. We got to spend a lot of time with some incredible cats and were not rushed in anyway, so the whole experience felt very relaxed and personal. As part of your stay, you have access to Swarovski binoculars to ensure that you can see as much as possible!

&Beyond are very conservation driven and a lot of what they do, you can learn about and get involved in. If you want to, you can assist the conservation team with their rhino, elephant and pangolin research.

&Beyond is also very child friendly - so even more perfect if you are staying at Phinda Homestead. They have a wild child program that really involves the children and allows them to experience and learn everything about the bush.

As well as game drives, you can also go on walking safaris to explore the bush on foot and take time to appreciate the smaller things such as tracking and birds. If you are looking for something even more special, you can also visit the local communities nearby too! So basically, you need to spend six months here ;)

My thoughts

Overall Phinda Homestead and the Phinda reserve is really phenomenal. The staff, the accommodation, the game viewing, the conservation is just mind blowing. They couldn’t do more for us and ensured that we made the most of every second.

Phinda is a perfect place to end a South Africa itinerary on or combine it with another safari destination such as the Sabi Sands. After Phinda, I then went onto Sabi Sands and stayed at another &Beyond property - Tengile River Lodge before then going onto Mozambique. It was a great combo.

I would say Phinda is perfect if you are looking for more exclusivity and privacy without the 100s of other vehicles you might find somewhere else. Although the game viewing is great and you get more quality time with the wildlife, the concentration of game is not like it would be in somewhere like Kruger National Park for example. The one negative I would say is that a couple of times I saw fences, which isn’t a bad thing but it takes the wild factor away from it a little. Although in Sabi Sands/Kruger leopards basically fall out of trees and you can see the ‘Big 5’ within minutes of arriving, I would say I prefer Phinda as it just feels so much more special and personalised.

I think this place is super special and would recommend it to anyone who wants something a little different and unique.

Thank you to the whole team who made my stay extremely special and memorable.

Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe

Well…how do I even start with this place! Just stunning all round! From the moment I arrived I was blown away with the panoramic views as far as I could see. It’s so hard to believe that Lake Kariba is a lake….yes, I know how that sounds but it’s so huge that it looks like the sea! The lodge is one of the oldest lodges in the area and is now owned by the wonderful African Bush Camps Safari Company and since owning the lodge they have done a fantastic job in renovating it and making it the amazing place it is today. If you haven’t heard of African Bush Camps, head over to their website to see all of their other wonderful lodges they have in Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia.

Also, fun fact for you…did you know that Lake Kariba was man made? When it was being built, there was a huge operation called ‘Operation Noah’ that lasted five years and was a wildlife rescue mission to relocate all animals in the area of where the dam was being built. Over 6,000 animals were re located, mainly to the Matusadona National Park. You can learn all about this whilst at the lodge!

On arrival at the lodge, I had a tour of the main area and just took in those views! I mean, look at it!!

How I got there

I arrived on a light aircraft flight from Hwange National Park and I know I have said it before, but I was blown away by the views as we got to the lake! You can drive up to the lake from Harare but the roads are not the best and it can take a long time, so flying up there is the best option. It is also super easy to combine lodges around the lake as you can just jump in a boat and travel across. I spent a lot of time in boats when I was there as I visited a lot of lodges!!

The room

The rooms are very stylish and slick with a hint of African influence. My favourite part of the room was the bath and all the products and of course, the incredible balcony overlooking the banks of the lake. I could have sat there for hours and hours watching the world go by with a coffee. The best part is that if you look close enough you can see elephants and hippos wandering along the banks. As the rooms are high up and amongst the trees, you are also visited by all the stunning birdlife.

The rooms are perfect for people who enjoy their comfort as they can shut away the bush and outside as soon as they step into their room. Although not the largest of rooms, they are extremely comfortable, have everything you need for a perfect stay, are very private and feel very safe. I personally felt like I was shutting out the smells and sounds of Africa (I love listening to it) but I know for a lot of people this is perfect! It has a more hotel style feel to it than some other lodges. But stunning and beautiful all round.

The main areas

Oh well….I am not quite sure what to say about the main areas. Perfect, amazing, stunning, breathtaking…anything else? The pool…WOW!!

As well as the main areas being stunning, they are spread out onto a few different levels and areas, which makes it feel like it has lots of lovely nooks and crannies to explore and chill out in. And the biggest bonus to it all, is that everywhere you look, you get those views over the lake. My personal favourites were the pool and the fire pit!

If you don’t feel like being outside all the time, then there are also plenty of inside places to chill out and relax too.

Anyone love the gym? Sorry let me ask again…anyone love the gym whilst they are on holiday? If your answer is yes to this (no judgement…well kind of), then there is a lovely little gym that you can use at the lodge. Again, the views are everywhere so if you are going to gym it, then why not do it with a view.

Now, coming to my favourite part…the treatments! And yes, I did take time out of working and treated myself to an hour long massage. I always find that the massages I get whilst at lodges are always THE BEST! I can’t help myself. So anytime I know that a lodge has a treatment room, I get waaaay too excited. If you want to know some of the best places to get massages, get in touch and I will help! Maybe I should do a post about this?

But anyway…this massage was amazing and well needed after all the travelling and early morning wake up calls for game drives in Hwange National Park. After my massage I went and chilled out around the pool and went for a little dip…perfect afternoon or what!!?

Wildlife and activities

Now getting to the best bit! An African safari lodge would be nothing without its wildlife and game drives. Our guide was wonderful and knew the area and all the wildlife like the back of his hand.

So the wildlife at Lake Kariba isn’t at the level at somewhere like Hwange National Park or the Okavango Delta as the concentration just isn’t there. If you are wanting to see the ‘Big 5’ this place isn’t for you, but it’s perfect if you just want to appreciate everything you see and go along for the adventure. It is a perfect addition to an itinerary with another safari destination - such as Hwange National Park, Lake Kariba and Victoria Falls.

That being said…I ended up seeing SO much wildlife and I wasn’t even there in peak season. There were so many elephants, hippos, zebras, giraffe antelope and bird life. Some of the photos I got were incredible. There are cats in the area but it can very difficult to see them.

Oh the sundowners….LOOK at those colours!!!!! I mean could it get more perfect than this? Amarula, wildlife and those sunsets!

Although I didn’t have time to do all the activities at this lodge, there is enough to keep you busy and exploring for a while! One of the best ways to explore the area is by heading out on a boat cruise. This way you can explore the lake and all the wildlife that lives on and around it. Another really popular activity is fishing! I did try this at another lodge and it is very good fun. If you are a first timer or a professional, it is such a great experience and a must whilst at the lake!

From the lodge you can also enjoy night drives, walking safaris and one of my favourites, star gazing!!

After our afternoon on safari from the lodge, our guide told us that something had happened and that we needed to go and investigate it. So we were a little confused about what was happening…after a little while, he turned the corner and we saw that a whole set up and been put up for us! All the staff were there with tables, chairs, a stove, a fire, beanbags…sooo much! We ended up having dinner out on the banks of the river under candle light with a camp fire - barefoot luxury (literally)! Omg…just PERFECT. One of the best nights I have had and so memorable. They said they love to do special things like this for guests as a surprise…so shhh…I said nothing. Such a wonderful memory and the food was incredible, as always!

My Thoughts

My stay at Bumi Hills was a short one, but extremely memorable. When I think of Lake Kariba, I think of Bumi Hills and that is saying a lot as I visited a lot of camps. Overall it is in a perfect location, with fantastic guides and ultimate luxury, so if this sounds like something you would enjoy…go to Bumi Hills! The staff couldn’t have done more for us if they tried and they made the experience what it was.

I would love to head back there and stay again to explore more. As I mentioned before, this is a perfect addition to a safari itinerary and African Bush Camps often have combo deals if you stay at more than one of their camps…so a great excuse for more safari…not that you need it.

Thank you to the Bumi Hills team for a wonderful stay and I will be back!

What to pack for an African Safari

What to pack for an African Safari

Packing for an African safari isn’t as straight forward as some people think it is! Africa is hot, so just shorts and t-shirts right? Nope! What a lot of people do not realise is that certain African countries get very cold at night and in in the mornings, and if you are heading out on safari before the sun rises or out on a game drive after the sun sets, if you are wearing shorts and a t-shirt you will get very chilly.

So, to help you with your packing, I have included a list of things to pack and also thrown in some info about what not to pack!

What to take on a Safari

• The best way to get close to the wildlife and make them feel as relaxed as possible is to blend in with your surroundings by wearing neutral colours such as greens, browns, and khakis.

• Light-weight, breathable fabrics reduce the noise when you are walking, especially on a walking safari. Layers are a great way to pack light but stay warm. Temperatures can be chilly on morning game drives, hot in the afternoon and cold at night. Layers allow you to remove clothing to make yourself comfortable as temperatures change.

• Airy, long-sleeved shirts with a collar will keep the sun off your arms and neck.

• A light jacket or fleece is great for an extra layer of warmth in case you need it. A fleece is a great idea because it dries quickly too.

• If you are going on safari in the middle of the African winter, you might want to pack gloves and a warm hat - crazy right?

• If you are going in the rainy/green season then a lightweight rain jacket is a must! Make sure it is light so that it doesn’t take up too much space in your bag but also because it can still be very warm.

• Comfortable trainers are suitable for most safaris, even for walking safaris. You will be climbing in and out of the safari vehicle frequently and doing some light walking around the bush, so closed shoes will be more comfortable and avoid your toes getting pricked by the sharp grasses.

• Sandles or flip-flops for when you are relaxing around the lodge and not out on an activity.

• Hats are a fantastic way to protect your head and face from the sun in an open-top safari vehicle.

• Sunglasses are a must.

• A swimsuit for if your lodge has a pool or you are heading to the beach afterward.

• For your evening meal, light colours are recommended to not attract mosquitoes. Linen trousers are the perfect way to look smart, stay cool, and prevent mosquito bites.

• A camera! Make sure you bring your charger as well as spare memory cards as I can guarantee you will be taking lots of pictures and you don’t want to run out of space!

• Any necessary plug adapters.

• Binoculars for those animals and birds that are a little trickier to spot.

• Suncream for any part of your body that isn’t covered whilst on a safari. Even though it can be a little chilly, the sun can be sneaky and burn you when least expected.

• Mozzie spray is likely to be at most of the camps, but it’s a great idea to have some of your own to keep with you. Bite relief might also be a good addition.

• A light bag or backpack to take everything you need with you on activities.

• Any personal medications such as malaria tablets etc…

What not to take on a Safari

• No bright-coloured clothing or crazy patterns. This will likely scare off the wildlife and could possibly draw unwanted attention.

• You must avoid camouflage clothing as some African countries reserve this pattern for military personnel only.

• Dark colours attract Tsetse flies, so stay away from dark blue or black clothing – they have a painful bite!

• White coloured clothing will get dirty very quickly so try and stay with the neutral colours instead.

• Formal wear is not necessary as most lodges and camps have a relaxed dress code. Most people end up wearing the same clothes to dinner as they wore in the day…with a few extra layers.

• Heavy hiking boots take up too much room in your suitcase, are super heavy and aren’t necessary for most safaris unless you have been told that your itinerary includes walking through the rainforest or harsh terrain.

• Too much clothing! Pack light – most safari lodges offer laundry facilities. You can also save space with convertible clothing like zip-off trousers that turn into shorts or a zip-off fleece that turns into a gilet. It is likely that you will wear the same sort of clothes every day anyway, so don’t worry!

• Toiletries such as shampoos, shower gel, and hair conditioners are normally provided by the camps and are usually environmentally friendly. Obviously, it is worth checking that your camp supplies these, but there is no need to take these items when they are already there!

• Towels are usually very big and bulky and unless stated otherwise, the camps usually provide them. No need to fill up your small luggage with these big items.

• Please don’t take hairdryers and straighteners with you! Most of the camps will either have a hairdryer you can borrow or the camp runs on limited or solar power so will not be able to handle the appliance. If you feel like you must take it with you, please check first that the camp will be able to support it. You do not want to be that person who blows the fuse at the camp!!

Whilst on safari it is a must to pack as light as possible. Most safari operators will ask that you only bring one small, soft sided suitcase and this is usually down to space either on the vehicle or light aircraft which have very tight restrictions. Large, hard suitcases don’t easily fit on the light aircrafts, which means that your luggage is likely to be refused.

You might think you need more, but you won’t. Less is more on safari and you won’t even feel like you are roughing it – you will be well looked after at your lodge. Most lodges even offer laundry services!

So I hope that this has given you some ideas for your safari and of course, if you have any suggestions, send them over and I will get them added in!

As always, happy travelling!!

My spider story....

So, if you are super scared of spiders then it is probably best for you to stop reading now. But, if you want a bit of a laugh and like to be a little horrified then definitely keep reading.

I’ve been lucky enough to have been to the Okavango Delta a few times and have had all kinds of different experiences each time. Generally trips to the Okavango Delta are peaceful and exciting. Gliding through the waterways on a mokoro (a local wooden dug-out canoe), listening to the ripples of the water whilst keeping an eye out for elephants on the river banks. You will also often spot hippos lounging around in the water or crocs sunbathing. Occasionally you will get little visitors in the mokoros, such as a tiny frog or a little spindly spider.

So when I arrived in the Okavango Delta again, I felt very prepared and thought I knew exactly what I was in for. I’m not going to name names or mention where I was staying or which company I was with at the time, as this experience did not really have anything to do with them. I do however feel that our guide could definitely have managed the situation better and should have acted better to our reactions but this does leave me with a very interesting story. I don’t wish this experience on anyone and everyone I have told says it is their worst nightmare.

As I mentioned, I am very well travelled and am generally quite an experienced traveller and actually own my own pet leopard gecko so deal with bugs daily. I am also the house spider catcher so it takes a lot to phase me. I grew up in the countryside and playing with bugs was one of my favorite past times.

On this particular trip I was with my friend and we had already been in the Okavango for a few days. On arrival at the airstrip for this particular camp in the Okavango Delta we received a lovely welcome from our guide like always. This camp is located on an island and as part of the welcome experience, you enter the camp by travelling via mokoro around the island rather than driving to it. Our guide gave us a short safety talk and one of the things he said was ‘Just so you know, small insects such as spiders might fall into the mokoro’. From previous experiences, this was very normal and they were usually just small spiders that you could lift out of the mokoro. My friend was scared of spiders and I managed to reassure her about it from my own experiences. I also volunteered to sit in the front so that if anything fell in, it would fall on me first.

On the short 10 minute ride to the camp there were no dramas, just lots of excitement about arriving at camp. The plan was to spend the night at the camp before heading out into the delta the next day for a night in the bush on an uninhabited island. This meant taking full advantage of the working toilets and showers as well as the beds for tonight.

Bright and early the next morning my friend and I gathered all of our belongings and headed to the dock where our guide was packing the mokoros ready for our trip deep into the Okavango. On my first trip to Africa back in 2012 I camped all over the continent so I was excited to experience it again.

The mokoro was being poled by our guide, I was sat in front and my friend in the back. It was so peaceful and I felt very relaxed and was soaking in the warm sun. We glided along the ready-made waterways for about an hour and it was very similar to the other mokoro experiences I have had in the past. After a while we started travelling ‘off road’ as we had to go deeper into the delta to get to the island we were going to be staying on for the night. Going ‘off road’ meant that instead of travelling along the ready-made waterways that the hippos made, we were pushing our own way through the reeds which was a little trickier.

It started to get a little more interesting and a good change of scenery as it felt a little more adventurous. At this stage, I was sat upright, rather than in my usual laid-back position. I was taking everything in when all of a sudden I felt something cover my face….I wiped it off and realised it was a spider web. I looked down and saw a huge spider on my collar bone and quickly brushed it off before my friend noticed. As I did that, I looked up and noticed that we were basically entering golden orb webbed spider heaven and we were gliding right towards them. As we were travelling through the usually uninterrupted reeds where the spiders had created their webs, we were separating the reeds, breaking their webs apart which meant the spiders were falling right onto us. The first few spiders I managed to brush off without my friend seeing but soon after it felt like they were being thrown at us and there was no avoiding them.

My friend started to panic and I started to worry she would try and get out the mokoro or make a sudden movement which could tip us out…which we didn’t want as we might come face to face with a crocodile. I was trying to comfort my friend behind me whilst also trying to scoop the spiders out of the mokoro, but it got even trickier when they started to crawl into the straw that lined the bottom of the mokoro. There were a few times where we managed to lay low and play spider limbo and ducked under the webs as the spiders travelled over the top of our faces… but then they would land on our guide who was stood at the back of the boat and then fall into the mokoro anyway.

At one point, my friend actually screamed at me and told me that I had one climbing up my back…so I had to try and flick it off once it reached my shoulder. It felt like they were all over us and there was no escape.

Our guide was actually starting to find this whole experience funny and I think he thought we were just being silly. He was a local guide who had grown up in the Okavango Delta so was very used to these large but harmless spiders so he was not bothered by them at all. Our guide continued to make his way through the reeds, welcoming new spiders onto the boat. I don’t think there was anything he really could have done for us at that point, he just kept poling us deeper into the delta.

As I mentioned before, I am not scared of spiders but this experience was horrific…spiders all over you and not managing to escape was awful and for my friend, it was probably her worst nightmare. We kept asking our guide how much longer we had until we were at the island or if there was any way out of this nightmare but we didn’t really get much information from him. I asked him if we could hurry up or find another route but nothing really changed. All of a sudden he just stopped and despite me asking him to move he just stood very still. My friend started to panic and he just said ‘sorry we can’t move, there is a 3 meter crocodile underneath us, and if I move he might flip us’. This was just the tip of the iceberg. I was desperately trying to stay calm myself, whilst attempting to keep my friend calm too.

Around 90 minutes later….yes you read that right, 90 minutes later…we finally arrived at the island where we would spend the night. Both of us jumped out of the boat and just collapsed onto the banks of the island. I had never been so happy to reach land. I felt my blood sugar massively decrease and felt really weak! Luckily, I had some starburst in my bag so sat quietly eating them until I felt a little better. Although it sounds dramatic…I am being deadly honest when I tell you this story.

I am sure there were other species of spider that day, like the banded garden spider however, the Golden Orb Web Spider was the main and most memorable out of the bunch. They are huge and the female can have an abdomen of up to 30mm long and with their legs can reach up to 5 inches!! They aren’t naturally aggressive but if provoked they can bite which can be painful but isn’t harmful to humans. Luckily we weren’t bitten!

My friend decided that she couldn’t go back the same way and told our guide to come up with a new way back to the main camp the next day. Unfortunately, we didn’t have many other options as we were in the middle of nowhere. Our guide said that we had one other option to get back to the main camp and that was to go to Chiefs Island (a large island in the delta), walk around two hours and then hop in a mokoro on the other end where there were ready-made waterways. She jumped at the idea of this so our guide said he would make the arrangements. What she didn’t realise was that to get to Chiefs Island, we would need to get back in the mokoro to get to it. I decided not to say anything so that she could sleep that night.

After a little while, we began to relax and managed to enjoy our evening. We put our tent up, lit a fire, and went on an afternoon bush walk to explore the island. We saw lots of wildlife and it got our minds off our earlier experience.

The next morning once everything was packed up, our guide told us to jump back into the mokoro and my friend started to panic. I tried to reassure her and told her it was just a short journey…maybe around 15-20 minutes. We decided to get her to lay down in the mokoro, cover her with all our jumpers and blankets and I sat in the front with an extended Go Pro pole…moving the spiders out of the way before we broke their webs with our faces and bodies. I do not know why I didn’t think of this the day before, and I can only put it down to pure panic. The journey to Chiefs Island was a lot less traumatic than the day before and the Go Pro pole was a lifesaver.

We finally reached the island and began our walk to the other end of it to a mokoro waiting to pick us up and take us back to the main camp. It was a lot calmer and we even spent some time watching elephants on the banks and in the water.

The whole experience was extremely traumatic. I think my friend handled the situation amazingly considering her phobia of spiders. But I have to be honest and say that it has made me a little more scared of them and every time I come near a spider, I get serious flashbacks.

When I spoke to the camp managers about the experience they said they had never heard anything like it and can only put it down to the high rainfall they had that year. But I warned them about it and I can’t imagine all guests would be so friendly and kind about the experience. I understand that we were in the wild and usually I am up for all kinds of experiences and adventures…but this was on a whole another level. Like I said before, it now leaves a fantastic story and I love watching people’s faces when I tell them about it! A lot of people say they will never travel to Africa after hearing this story, but Africa is huge with lots of wonderful experiences. Just avoid going off-piste in the Okavango Delta, after heavy rains in May if you are scared of spiders. It definitely hasn’t put me off the Okavango Delta and I am still in love with it as much as I was before.

P.s I hope you don’t get nightmares after reading this :)

The best picture I have ever taken...

THE BEST PICTURE I HAVE EVER TAKEN

This is the best picture I have ever taken! Sounds like I am blowing my own trumpet, doesn’t it? Well, this picture may not be the best quality or have any real meaning to anyone but I have a very valid reason as to why this is the ‘best picture I have ever taken’'. 

This picture was taken on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania just as the sun was rising on the longest night of my life. We had set off from base camp at 12am to climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro (5895m) in the hope we would make it for sunrise. Throughout the night, all I could see was a trail of lights from other climbers ahead of me to map my way to the top and to show me how far I had left to climb. I had never been so cold in my life and all I could do was look over into the distance to where the sun would first rise and in the hope that I would see some light...I knew that as soon as the sun started to rise I would get that boost of energy and much needed heat. 

I did this all night, so when I finally saw those gorgeous orange colours creep over the side of the mountain...I wanted to cry! After taking it in, I tried to get my numb hands to function enough to take a picture and when I went to click the capture button...my camera let me down and ran out of battery as it was so cold. So, with my still extremely numb hands, I rummaged around in my bag in the hope that I had some spare batteries that hadn’t been affected. Luckily, I found some and it was enough to take this picture and a couple more when we eventually made it to the top, but not many more after that.  

So when I say ‘this is the best picture I have ever taken’ I mean it. For me, it represents motivation, passion, endurance, achievement, relief, and energy. It may not be the best quality but it means everything to me. I still remember standing in that spot and feeling the warmth on my face and knowing that I would make it to the top! 

The Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana

The Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana

It is highly likely that a lot of people have never heard of the Makgadikgadi Pans let alone know how to say it (it definitely took me a while)- a few might of heard of it from Top Gear when they drove beaten up cars across the pans but other than that it isn't very well known- which can actually be a good thing. To most it looks like a wide open flat with nothing to do. That is where you are wrong. I have travelled all over Africa and this is by far one of my favourite areas due to its sheer beauty, its fantastic animals and incredible star gazing.

Don't get me wrong, it isn't the cheapest place on earth and it is definitely not the most accessible of places- but once you make it there it is 100% worth it.

Some quick fun facts

The pans make up around 20% of the Makgadikgadi Pans national park and they are actually remains of a super lake that covered a huge part of Southern Africa many thousands of years ago. When the water evaporated it left the salt pans which does not allow any plants or vegetation to grow. Despite the limited water and food, this area is still called home by many species of wildlife and the very interesting and traditional San Bushmen.

What activities are there to do?

So what is there do to down in the Makgadikgadi Pans I hear you ask?

Meerkats- To me this is the most important and most exciting activity. Not only do you get to see meerkats, you have the opportunity to get right up close and personal with them. There are several families that are habituated in the area meaning that there is a very high chance you will get this fantastic experience. There is actually a guy who gets to track them and spend most of the day following them around- I'm keeping a close eye out in case this job becomes available! That’s what you call a job right??

I was extremely lucky enough to spend a few hours with a family of meerkats and it really was one of the most amazing mornings. I got to spend time with babies and watch the whole family hunt. Then, to top it all off, I had a couple of them climb on me!! The main reason they do this is so that they can get to the highest point to look out for creators- I mean if that’s what they want to use me for, they can do this all day as far as I am concerned. These meerkats are completely wild so to be able to get this close to them really is a once in a lifetime experience.

Nature drives- These drives are truly a breathtaking experience! It allows you the opportunity to see animals in a very different landscape and environment. There are even some unusual and rare animals that you may be lucky enough to spot, such as aardwolves, brown hyenas and aardvarks.

Drives along the pan- This is a wonderful way to see and really appreciate how large the pans are. It also allows you to get some fantastic pictures- especially is animals decide to be part of the photoshoot.

Quad biking- Now this is a very cool activity! You can only quad bike in the dry season which is their winter and our summer. Depending on the rains, this time period is usually from about June to October. If there is still water in the pans, it will not be possible as it will be too slippery. There is also the opportunity to quad bike into the pans to Kubu island and then sleep out under the stars!

Star gazing- Only one thing needs to be said here- the stars are out of this world! It will probably be the best you will ever see- particularly in their winter.

The migration- Most people are not aware of this, but this is one of the biggest and most spectacular migrations in Africa. Everyone knows about the migration in the Serengeti and the Masai Mara but not many people know about the one in Botswana. As soon as the rains arrive in December the Zebras begin their journey down South to the pans as they fill up with water. They usually arrive in the pans around January time and start to head back up north in early March when they start to dry up. This is truly a spectacular sight and one that often gets forgotten about. You will also have the opportunity to spot predators as they follow closely behind. This is also the time of year that the migratory birds are in the pans and also when you will have some wonderful sightings of the flamingo as they turn the pans pink!

The San Bushmen- This is a wonderful opportunity to learn about and spend some time with the San Bushmen. They will introduce you to their way of life and show you how they survive. It is a fascinating experience and makes you appreciate their culture. It is worth bearing in mind that although these guys are wearing their traditional clothing and using their tools, it is not to be forgotten that most of them no longer live like this.

Sunsets - As with most places in Africa, the sunsets are to die for. Watching an African sunset with an Amarula is my ultimate happy place! Sundowners here consist of a fire next to the endless Makgadikgadi Pans! Look at those colours!!

When should I visit?

This is a very interesting question and also a difficult one to answer. When you should go to the pans very much depends on what you want to get out of your experience.

November to April- This is Botswana's summer so it is going to be very hot- especially down in the pans where it can creep up into the 40's. It is also worth noting that the accommodations only have fans and no air con so the evenings can be quite uncomfortable. Although it is their summer, it is also their rainy season so you are likely to get rain- with the rain you get very impressive thunderstorms which creates a photographers’ dream! As the rains arrive in December the zebra migration heads down south to the pans and arrive around January time- they usually stay until March time. This is a stunning time to visit as you will have the opportunity to see the migration as well as the pans in full flood which bring beautiful birds as well as predators.

May to October- May is when the pans are still wet but have very little water in them. As the winter approaches the pans completely dry up, the days cool and are a lot less humid. There is very little chance of rain and you are likely to get very clear days and nights- giving you a fantastic opportunity to stargaze. This time of year is fantastic for the meerkat sightings as well as heading out on the quad bikes.

Where to stay?

There is a very limited number of lodges that you can visit down in the pans and even fewer where you can enjoy all of the activities. The beauty of this is that there are very few people in the area so you aren't likely to run into anyone else out there. You will feel like you have the world to yourself!

Jacks Camp

Jacks camp is the flagship property and is named after Jack, the founder himself. The camp offers a very unique style of decoration and has a very old safari explorer feel to it. The camp is the height of luxury, although a very unusual style. The camp is made of dark green draping fabric so is a little dark in some areas- particularly the large pool area which is covered. The main area is also home to a registered museum of old artifacts and animals collected by Jack from the area. The camp was designed by Jack and was very specific in his decor choices. His son has now taken over the family business and keeps Jack in mind when it is time for refurbishments. Unfortunately, Jack was killed in a tragic plane crash and is buried not too far away from the camp.

San Camp

This is a very beautiful camp which is located right on the edge of a pan so has stunning views! This is a very traditional style safari camp with draping white fabric in the main areas. The camp is very open and airy and has a very zen like feel to it. There is a yoga tent where people can enjoy some alone time as well as the main area which has lots of interesting artifacts in it. Like Jacks camp, the decor is chosen very specifically to keep up with Jacks taste.

The camp is currently undergoing some refurbishments which will result in a couple more rooms, larger tents and will eventually introduce a pool as it does not currently have one.

Camp Kalahari

Camp Kalahari is my favourite of the camps in the area as it is a lot simpler and less over the top than Jacks and San camp. Although it is further away from the meerkats, it is still in a fantastic location to enjoy all of the activities. All three camps are just a short drive between each other and are all part of the same family. The camp has a small plunge pool and relaxing area around it which is perfect for a dip on a hot day.

Planet Baobab

Planet Baobab is a very large and simple property. It is more suited to people on a budget and who enjoy backpackery style accommodation. It does have a very large pool open pool which is very inviting. The rooms have quite strange layouts and are not suited to people who are wanting a romantic getaway or any form of luxury. It is also worth noting that this accommodation is very far away from the meerkats and to get close to them you will have to travel into the pans and spend a night camping out under the stars- which doesn't sound too bad at all really does it?

Meno A Kwena

Meno A Kwena is based in a different location than the other four accommodation's I mentioned above. It is based on the edge of the pans and the main focus here is game drives in the national park and boat trips along the river. Unfortunately, you cannot visit the meerkats from here but it could be a nice combination to stop off at before heading to one of the other properties. Out of all of the accommodations I have stayed in, this has by far the most incredible view!

How to get to the Makgadikgadi Pans

Getting to the Makgadikgadi Pans isn't as hard as you think it will be- but yes it can be expensive so put those pennies in your piggy banks.

Driving- Driving to the Makgadikgadi Pans is the cheapest way to get to them. You can pick up a car in Maun and drive around four hours to get to them. It is very important that you do your research before picking up your car as you will need to ensure that you have a very good map and adequate driving directions/instructions. It is very important to speak to people who have travelled the roads recently as there are sometimes points where it says the road is closed, but in fact you can ignore the sign and continue driving- if you detour then you may not make it to where you need to be. As an example, we followed the map and came across the above- luckily we spoke with our friend who directed us and got us back to where we need to be. It is also worth bearing in mind that unlike places such as Namibia and South Africa, this is a VERY boring drive. You may be lucky enough to spot some wildlife on the journey but it definitely isn't the most thrilling of drives I have ever done in Africa. Mostly the roads are tar but there are A LOT of potholes that can slow you down so please be careful!

Please note that depending on your onward plans after the pans, you may miss out on your last morning activity due to needing to get back no on the road.

Scheduled road transfer- If you want to save some money and have the experience of travelling by road, then you can arrange a road transfer from Maun to the camp, however, please note this will be a long drive.

Flying- This is the most effective but most expensive way to get down to the pans. If I am being honest, it is definitely worth the extra money as it saves a lot of hassle and time! The planes are light aircrafts and the journey can take around an hour from Maun- the camp you are staying at can book this for you.

Useful tips

Language- Luckily the national language is English, however, there are lots of local and tribal languages that you will discover! Ask your guide to teach you some!

Currency- The local currency is Pula, which means rain in SeTswana. However, if you are just visiting safari camps USD is the preferred currency

Luggage- If you are planning on taking light aircraft to get around, please be aware that you will need to limit your luggage to 20kg per person in soft sided bags.

A wilderness of Granite - Amalinda Lodge, Zimbabwe

Amalinda Lodge

Have you ever wanted to stay somewhere in the middle of nowhere, where it feels like you are in another land but still feels so connected to the earth? Love luxury with a unique twist of nature? Then Amalinda Lodge is where you need to stay.

Amalinda Lodge is located in the Matopos Hills area in Zimbabwe! It is a stunning area filled with rocks and boulders which means the views are stunning! The area is rich in history and fantastic wildlife.

The Rooms

For this part, I can’t just write about ‘my’ room. Each room is unique so the style of your room is a complete surprise when you arrive. The layout is different, the bathrooms are different and the views are from different locations. Each room has its own special quirks and I loved exploring each and everyone of them!

The rooms are inspired by the rocks around it and this is where the rooms get their uniqueness. Some of the rooms have outside showers and baths, loos with a view, and one even has an ancient rock painting!! Imagine sleeping in a room with that much history!!?!

The main area

The main area of the lodge is just fantastic! It is built into the rocks and the views over the rocky landscape are to die for. There are so many cool nooks and crannies to discover when walking around so it is always best to keep an eye out.

The main lodge has a beautiful dining area with an impressive view and a bar at the top of some stone steps. Above the dining room, you will find a cosy but spacious fire pit where you can spent time before or after dinner with your favourite drink. I have spent many wonderful evenings around this fire, all cosy and wrapped up, listening to the crackling sounds. There is no better sound than the crackling of the fire, letting you know that you are in Africa and the knowledge that you are heading out on an adventure in the morning.

The walkways to each room stem off from the main area and they all lead to different directions.

Amazingly, there is only one spot for wifi and this is down in reception. This enables you to still be connected to the outside world but still with the ability to distance yourself from it everywhere else. So you know you can truly connect to the wild in the main area, rooms, and pool.

Talking of the pool….you haven’t seen a pool until you have seen Amalindas pool. This is just something else. The stunning infinity pool is large and overlooks the rest of the reserve, giving you lots of opportunities to spot wildlife as you relax and swim. To top it off…there is even a pool bar!!

The sound of baboons and zebras fills the air, making this area magical. If you are lucky, you may even be able to spot their zonky!!

Wildlife and Activities

Amalinda is based on its own reserve which is next to the Matopos Hills National Park, which means that there is so much wildlife around the lodge to see and experience. Your guide will be with you for your entire stay, personalising it to suit your interests. This is such a great benefit as it allows them to get to know you, which means that you can maximise your time at the lodge.

One of the most unique activities in this area is rhino tracking. This is such a special experience and one that really brings you back to the reality and severity of these wonderful creatures’ situations. Your guide will get in contact with the rhino rangers to see when and where the rhinos were last spotted. After picking up your ranger and searching for the rhinos in your vehicle, they will give you a brief before heading out on foot. There is something so humbling about this experience as you slowly and quietly approach these giants. Standing just meters away from these white rhinos as they go about their business and listening to their sounds has got to be one of the most special experiences I have ever had…and to make it even more special, I have been able to do this twice, once in 2018 and again in 2019!

The rangers stay with and track the rhinos 24/7 to make sure that they are safe and are not in any danger. They dedicate their lives to protect the rhinos and are truly exceptional human beings. To thank them for their time and service, a tip is very much appreciated once they have returned you safely back to your vehicle.

As well as rhinos, there are plenty of other animals in the area! There are hippos, giraffe, antelope, zebra, and even leopards! You will head out on safari in the Matopos National Park and here you will experience the stunning scenery and incredible animals. It is not a highly populated park for animals but it is a great place to start or end your trip and take it at a nice slow pace to ensure that you can take it all in. The entrance to the gate is around a 30 minute drive from the lodge making it nice and easy to enter. The great benefit of this park is that there aren’t too many lodges in the area, meaning that there will not be too many other people there.

Sunset is one of my favourite times of day when I am in Africa. It means parking up somewhere beautiful, your favourite drink (Amarula obviously), soaking in the scenery, and listening to the sounds of the bush. This area is no exception to any of these things!

There is an incredible look out point where I’ve been a couple of times and even the second time was just as breathtaking as the first. it takes around 15 minutes to reach the top and you spend your sundowner resting on the edge of a rock, overlooking the park. You can see for miles and miles into the distance and if you look carefully you can even spot rhinos grazing in the distance.

The park is also the final resting place of Cecil John Rhodes. If you are interested in history then I am sure you will have heard of him and the influence he had over Southern Africa. His grave is in one of the most incredible spots and overlooks most of the reserve. This is a popular place to walk to for sundowners and we were extremely lucky to have it all to ourselves. It is definitely a must when you visit the park.

If you know me, you know I LOVE reptiles so when I had the opportunity to meet, feed, and hang out with the scaly friends below who live in the rocks and feed them biscuits! It made my night! :)

The area is also full of incredible ancient rock paintings and whilst staying at Amalinda I was lucky enough to go and see some of them and learn about the history and lives of the Bushmen who lived there and the stories on the walls. Our guide spent time explaining the stories behind the paintings and I felt like I had stepped back in time. It was incredible to imagine that many years ago, the cave was bustling and home to a tribe of bushmen.

The staff

The guides and staff at Amalinda are fantastic and you can tell that they truly love their jobs and are so passionate about what they do. The guides are so invested in their work and are committed to make sure that you have the best possible stay with them. The rest of the staff at the lodge are so welcoming and friendly and are always happy to help with a smile on their face. The food was always so delicious and the chefs catered to all the requested dietary requirements. Amalinda is owned by the most wonderful family who I have been lucky enough to meet and spend time with, and when you are guests at the lodge you feel as though you are part of it.

how to get there

It is very easy to get to Amalinda and the Matopos area in general. If you starting your trip at Amalinda, you can fly into Bulawayo airport which is very well connected with Johannesburg. The lodge is then just a 45 minute drive from the airport. You can either drive there yourself or the lodge can pick you up in their luxury transport ‘Driving You Wild’.

If your stay at Amalinda is in the middle of your stay or at the end, then you can also drive from Victoria Falls/Hwange National Park. It will take you around three hours to drive to/from Hwange so this is a great option.

My thoughts

I absolutely love Amalinda, as I am sure you can tell. I think the lodge is just so unique and really allows you to disconnect from the world and step back into nature. The rooms are wonderful and the pool is to die for! The staff are some of the nicest people I have ever met and the guides are so passionate about what they do. I would recommend this lodge to EVERYONE! It is a must on a trip to Zimbabwe, either at the start or end of any trip.

Ile Aux Nattes, Madagascar

Ile Aux Nattes, Madagascar

If you want the definition of an island Paradise then Ile Aux Nattes (also known as Nosy Nato), is it! It is the most stunning and untouched paradise you will experience and the good thing about it, is that not a lot of people know about it.

Why visit?

Good question. Other than it having the most stunning beach going, the island is pure paradise and if you are wanting to get away from every other human being then this is the place to be. There isn’t a huge amount to do on the island and you can literally walk all around it in a couple of hours but it is gorgeous and there is enough to keep you busy for a few days. I definitely wouldn’t recommend spending your whole two week holiday here but if you are already in Madagascar or are thinking of somewhere to spend a few days at the end of your trip, this little island is perfect.

How do I get there?

Well…the island is stunning but it is quite a mission to get to and unless you do your research a lot of people would have never heard of it before. The main airport to fly into to get to Madagascar is Antananarivo (TNR), however, you wouldn’t want to fly all the way to Madagascar just to visit Ile Aux Nattes. Madagascar in itself is the most wonderful country and deserves at least a good few weeks of your time. There are a few ways to reach this little island paradise and one of them would be to fly from TNR to Ile Saint Marie (SMS) which is a slightly larger island that Ile Aux Nattes is part of- there is usually one flight a day (if Air Madagascar decides to work that day). Another way to get to Ile Saint Marie is to drive up north to Foulpoint from Antananarivo and then get the ferry across which tends to run twice a day if the weather is decent. There are also three flights a week from Le Reunion Islands.

Once you reach Ile Saint Marie, you will then need to make your way right to the south of the island and you can do this by jumping in a tuk tuk (from the airport it’s not far at all, however, it’s a little further from the Ambodifototra ferry port). From the main town of Ambodifototra it is likely to cost around 15,000 Ariary.

Once you reach the bottom of the island you will then need to jump in a local canoe which will either have a very small motor on it, or there will be a guy using a pole to get you to your destination. These boats are super cheap and can range from 2,000 Ariary to 10,000 Ariary and can take you to anywhere on the island.

The water is very shallow and is protected by a reef a little further out so is very easy to make your way around it in one of these little canoes. Once in the canoe, you can literally take a short ride over to the tip of the island and then walk to your hotel depending on where you are staying, or if you are staying at a hotel right on the south coast, which we were, you can get the boat to take you all the way. This then saves you carrying all of your luggage for an hour.

What there is to do?

The main thing to do here is to appreciate the beaches and enjoy the weather! If you are not the type of person that can sit still and sunbathe then there are still activities to keep you busy. The clear blue sea is wonderful for snorkelling and there are some wonderful dive sights in the area for you to enjoy. There isn’t a dive shop on the island, only on Ile Saint Marie, however, the lodges will be able to help arrange this for you.

September is whale watching season and you can arrange whale watching tours from mainland Ile Saint Marie, or your hotel can arrange these tours for you.

The island is very small and there are few different hotels you can go to for lunch. There is the ‘White House’ which is located on the highest point of the island and has stunning 360 degree panoramic views-  it is also a hotel which you can book to stay at. If you want to enjoy the panoramic views, you will need to either buy a drink or pay 3,000 Ariary- I vote drink!

There is also the old lighthouse where you can wander up to and enjoy views over the southern part of the island. Please excuse the AWFUL hairstyle….I got my hair braided and it was an instant regret…

At the tip of the island where you will cross over from Ile Saint Marie, is the Lucky Dube Pizza Bar! It is a reggae themed bar and has music blaring from it. You can enjoy pizza, sea food, soft drinks and cocktails! It is a great way to mix with the locals and other tourists in the area.

Getting around the island

As I mentioned above, if you are arriving or departing, it is definitely recommended to take one of their canoes, however, if you are just wanting to explore the island then it is best by foot. There are some little walking trails around the island that all connect together and run through some villages and this is a great way to get an insight to local culture.

There are no cars on the island, only a few beaten up motor bikes so walking is your best option. From the south to the north it will probably take you around an hour and if you walk around the whole island it will probably take you a couple of hours. The island has beautiful white beaches but the middle of the island is covered in lush green forests so there is plenty of shade to keep you protected.

Keep an eye out for the lemurs as there are some black and white ruffed ones hanging around.

Where I Stayed

I stayed at a beautiful little lodge called Les Lemuriens on the south coast of the island! There is not another lodge in sight and if you wish to go anywhere else it is around a 20 minute walk to the next lodge. There is a little village around a five minute walk away, and because of this you often see a few locals wandering around.

All of the rooms are named after different species of lemur and we were in the Sifaka Room. There are different standard of rooms from the simple, the standard, the comfort and the family room, but all are beautiful and have thatched roofs.

The main area is beautiful and has some lounge areas for you to relax in. There is also a spa treatment room where you can get a number of different treatments.

The hotel offers a few activities and these can all be booked on arrival at the lodge. You can take part in Whale watching, scuba diving and tours around the island. They also have kayaks which you can use to go and explore the island.

The food here is quite tasty but VERY expensive. Having just spent four weeks in Madagascar and paying very cheap prices for food, coming here was a shock. The food was very overpriced and we were paying around 25,000 Ariary for the main course. Now, that only works out at around £5.50, however, this usually paid for both myself and my boyfriend to have a three course meal on the mainland. Most of the time the menu was the same for lunch and dinner and there were usually only a few options to choose from! The annoying thing about this hotel is that they do not take card and there is no cash machine on Ile Aux Nattes. My boyfriend and I thought we were well prepared but we ended up having to make a couple more trips back to Ile Saint Marie to visit the cash machine.

Why not eat somewhere else I hear you ask? That would have been a great option if we were not in the middle of nowhere! It got dark pretty early and for us to try and get ourselves around the island in the dark on tiny little paths would have been impossible. We loved our little lodge but we did think that choosing a hotel nearer to the north of the island would have been more cost-effective in regards to meals. With that being said, we did wander around in the day and most of the hotels were charging the same sort of prices.

One evening my boyfriend asked the hotel if there was going to be lobster on the menu- for some reason he got a huge obsession with eating lobster. The answer to that question was no, but they said that they would go and fish for one. An hour later they came back with a huge lobster one of the fishermen found and asked us if it was ok! My boyfriend was over the moon and they said they would prepare it for the next night’s dinner. It was delicious!

The staff at the hotel were great and made sure our stay was memorable!

My thoughts 

This island is an absolute paradise and is perfect for people wanting to get away from the busy world for a few days. There is very limited wifi or connections to the outside world and very few other people around. It is an ideal place for a digital detox and a way to build your connection with the earth. I would go back here in a heartbeat!